GUMBO Z’HERBES: taken from Gulf Coast Kitchens, by Constance Snow (2003), which explores how a range of cuisines -- Mexican, Spanish, French, African, Creole, Italian, and Asian -- have intermingled in the coastal areas from the Yucatan peninsula to Key West. There are first-rate versions of dishes I already knew (red beans and rice, jambalaya, grilled vegetable salsa), and most of the recipes involve seafood or meat, so I didn’t spend too much time with this book, though it seemed well thought out and trustworthy for the most part, with only the occasional fusiony excess.

The recipe I found most interesting is for a gumbo made with lots of greens and herbs and traditionally served on Good Friday in southern Louisiana, when for all the wrong reasons people tend to do the right thing and not eat meat or fish. The story goes that you will make a new friend for each different kind of greens you throw into the pot.

GUMBO Z’HERBES

Simmer 2 lbs. mixed greens in 3 to 4 cups water in a large pot for 30 mins. Drain, reserving the stock, and chop the greens.
(I used the greens I had on hand: chard, spinach, parsley, dandelion leaves, mustard greens, and collards; other options include kale, turnip greens, cabbage, watercress, beet greens).

Warm 2 tbs. oil in the same pot over medium heat, then gradually stir in 2 tbs. flour. Cook until a pale golden color. Then add 1 cup chopped onion, 1 cup chopped green bell pepper, 1/2 cup chopped celery, and 1/4 cup chopped scallions. Cook until the vegetables are limp. Add 2 cloves minced garlic and reserved cooked greens; simmer for several minutes. Stir in the reserved stock, add a bay leaf and a sprig or two each of fresh thyme and marjoram (or oregano), and simmer for 2 hours, adding additional liquid if required to avoid sticking. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Turn off the heat and stir in 2 tbs. filé powder (or let people add this at the table, along with generous amounts of chopped parsley.) Serve in bowls over plain boiled rice.